My Soul In Church

break break crash crash,

splish splish splash splash,

waves wave more more,

yes i am a board whore,

love em all in different ways,

the way to pump the wave i crave,

longboard shortboard doesn’t matter,

long as feet go pitter patter,

do them all do them good,

toes on nose or ride it hood,

duck dive done did do it do,

wear my booties like a shoe,

wish waves wish well wash & wash,

some say so so soaked in shots,

some swell some chop some sea seen,

pearl dive eat shit not so keen,

one place one beach one good wave,

once went once hit once i’m brave,

drive drive search search,

oceans are my soul in church,

blessed in sprinkled drops i caught,

seaweed rocks fish dolphins lot,

breaks left breaks right,

regular foot is quite alright,

farther farther paddle paddle,

ride my board like horse with saddle,

love them all love them well,

some so stoked some so said stale,

miss you love you want you more,

always looking more to score.


took this on a choppy day…one of my favorite spots i miss dearly
v…… holds my heart


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